Introduction
In this article, we will walk you through the entire process of creating a stunning metallic black cherry River Bar top using epoxy and an oil finish. We will explain step by step how we transformed a badly cupped and warped live edge slab into a beautiful table, from stripping away the bark to pouring the river and applying the Rubio Monocoat finish. Whether you’re looking for tips and tricks or simply want to witness the mesmerizing process of working with epoxy, you’ve come to the right place. So, sit back, relax, and let us guide you through the journey of creating this one-of-a-kind table.
Stripping Away the Bark
To kickstart our project, we began by using a mini pry bar and a hammer to strip away the bark from the live edge slab. Surprisingly, the bark came off quite easily, even in areas where it was tightly stuck. Removing the bark allows us to work with a clean surface and reveal the natural beauty of the wood.
Determining the Size of the Bar Top
Next, we needed to determine the size of the bar top. We decided to leave it a little longer than necessary, knowing that we would cut off the ends after pouring the river. This flexibility gives us room to make adjustments and ensures a perfect fit for the final product.
Cutting the Slab
Using a circular saw, we made a cross cut to trim the slab to the desired length. Given that the slab was made of dried hardwood cherry, we took extra precautions and made two passes with the saw, although one pass would have been sufficient. For the rip cut, we made a single pass, effortlessly sawing through the wood. To ensure a straight cut, we used an aluminum straight edge as a saw guide, clamping it about an inch and a half away from the intended cut line. This resulted in a clean and precise cut along the length of the slab.
Dividing the Slab
Due to the severe cupping and warping of the slab, we decided to divide it into smaller pieces. Working with a single solid slab would have made it challenging to flatten it while maintaining the desired thickness. By cutting it into smaller chunks, we can plane one side of each piece, ensuring a flat and consistent surface.
Planing the Slabs
To flatten the slabs, we used a planer. Since our slabs were less than 13 inches wide, they fit easily through our small planer. However, this process required multiple passes, creating quite a mess. To minimize wood chips flying all over the shop, we used a vacuum cleaner to collect the debris. After several passes, we achieved perfectly flat surfaces on one side of each slab.
Jointing the Slabs
To ensure a tight join between the slabs and the river, we needed to make a 90-degree cut on the backside of each piece. This aligns the slabs perfectly perpendicular to the table, reducing the chances of gaps and wasted epoxy. Using a jointer, we made the necessary cuts, resulting in a seamless connection between the slabs and the river.
Sanding the Edges
To remove any excess bark and achieve smooth edges, we sanded the slabs. Using a rotary sander and hand sanding, we were able to clean up the edges and prepare them for attaching the river.
Preparing the Slabs for the River Pour
Before pouring the river, we needed to ensure that the slabs were clean and free from loose bark. To do this, we used an automotive pick to open up any crevices and cracks, allowing the epoxy to penetrate and stabilize the wood. We also marked out the exact location of the river on the slabs using a magic marker. This helped us determine the amount of tape needed for the form.
Attaching the Form
To create the form, we used Craig jig pocket holes and pocket screws to attach it to the slabs. By putting the form on after placing the slabs, we eliminated the risk of having gaps between the form and the table. This prevents epoxy from seeping out and wasting material. We caulked the seams and corners of the form to ensure a watertight seal, using colored caulk to easily identify any missed spots. After securing the form, we double-checked to remove any excess caulk that could affect the flatness of the slab.
Sealing the Edges
Before pouring the river, we sealed the edges of the slabs using tabletop epoxy. This step helps prevent epoxy from leaking through the wood and ensures a strong bond between the river epoxy and the tabletop epoxy. Applying the epoxy along the edges, we made sure to cover all areas. To prevent the slabs from floating up during the river pour, we used house wrap tape that allows for easy removal. This temporary attachment method saves us from having to apply continuous pressure to keep the slabs in place.
Sanding and Scuffing the Edges
To create a mechanical bond between the river epoxy and the tabletop epoxy, we sanded and scuffed the edges that were sealed with epoxy. This step enhances the adhesion between the layers and promotes a strong bond. Using 220-grit sandpaper, we roughened the surface without removing any epoxy. Additionally, we paid attention to sanding the cracks to ensure a smooth and even surface for the final product.
Calculating the Epoxy Amount
Before proceeding with the river pour, it’s crucial to calculate the amount of epoxy needed. This prevents wastage and ensures you have enough to complete the project. By measuring the depth, width, and thickness of the river in multiple places, we determined that we needed just over three gallons of mixed epoxy.
Mixing the Epoxy
We mixed the epoxy separately, following the manufacturer’s instructions. For accuracy, we used stirring sticks instead of a power mixer to minimize the number of bubbles. After mixing the epoxy in a five-gallon bucket, we combined the epoxy from two kits and added the metallic black powder for color. The amount of powder needed was determined based on personal preference, and we mixed it into the epoxy until it reached the desired consistency.
Pouring the River
With the epoxy mixed and colored, we were ready to pour the river. Starting at one end, we slowly poured the epoxy into the form, ensuring even distribution. As the epoxy filled the form, fascinating patterns and reflections started to emerge, creating a mesmerizing effect. Since the epoxy has a self-leveling property, it spread evenly across the form and self-leveled to create a smooth surface. We continued pouring until the river reached the desired thickness.
Finalizing the Process
After pouring the river epoxy, we allowed it to cure for approximately 24 hours. During this time, we placed weights on the slabs to prevent them from floating up. Once the epoxy had cured, we removed the form and admired the stunning river within the table. To enhance and protect the wood, we applied a Rubio Monocoat finish. This oil-based finish not only provides a durable and long-lasting coating but also brings out the natural beauty of the wood.
Conclusion
Congratulations! You’ve followed us through the step-by-step process of creating an oil finished epoxy river table. From stripping away the bark to pouring the river and applying the Rubio Monocoat finish, we’ve covered all the essential details to help you achieve stunning results. Whether you’re a seasoned woodworker or a beginner, working with epoxy can be a rewarding and exciting experience. We hope this article has provided you with valuable insights and inspiration for your future projects. Have fun creating your own masterpiece!
